Acquaintance with one of the most beautiful villages of Lesvos and its port, source of inspiration of the great Myrivilis and vacation spot of many faithful friends with or without origin.
«The natural beauty of the place around here is to see it and be amazed by the rich heart of God. This windy beach does not lose its joy and grace, you want August burning the world, you want winter being heavy. Because the lines from the mountains dance down to the shore, the land waves like a sea and the trees, the colorful rocks descend from everywhere, and the waters rush to the shore»*.
Stratis or Stratis Myrivilis (1892-1969) was happy to be born and live in this place and this place was happy to have the world famous writer to describe its beauties and history.
The village of Sykaminea (Sykamia or Skamnia for the locals), which owes its name to the many mulberries in the area, is located on the ridge of the highest mountain of Mytilene, Lepetymnos. There, in the northwestern part of the island, among lush vegetation with pines, plane trees, and olive trees, the traditional settlement of Sykamia stands out from afar with its mansions, stone houses, the view of the Aegean Sea that magnetizes, and the elegant cobbled streets.
Very beautiful, organized and interesting is the Folklore Museum of Sykamia, just below the house of Myrivili, which is not open to visitors, and the three-aisled royal church of Agia Fotini. In the museum, which is housed in the stone building of the primary school of the village, there is a room with the personal belongings of Stratis Myrivilis.
Descending to the sea, the observant eye of the visitor can see the terraces made of dry stone that the people of Skamni had made to rest on the ascent, the “chairs” as they were called. Shortly before arriving in Skala, as the ports of the mountain villages say on the island, he sees a circle of olive groves, which together with fishing are the main source of income for the permanent residents of the island.
The Virgin Mary’s ridges
Skala of Sykamia, a small fishing village, has such an aura and natural beauty, which is an ideal destination for those who want a quiet, relaxing holiday close to nature. And whoever is there will hardly want to leave.
A trademark of the village is Panagia Gorgona, the chapel that stands on the big rock in front of the port with fishing boats, trawls and trehantiria. This rock is called by the ancients “Tis Panagia ta rachta”. As Myrivilis says again, “Or you go up to the ridges, you look around for a walk, land and sea, and your eye tears. A rejoicing drips from the trees, gushing from the brown and red soils, from the stones and the waters “*. This is the feeling one has in Skala: that worries and problems can wait, have no place in this relaxation and peace.
The chapel has taken its name from the characteristic fresco of an unknown folk painter depicting the Virgin with a mermaid tail, but no longer exists in the church. In the summer there are many baptisms and weddings there, sometimes the brides like to come on a fishing boat. However, all the services in Panagia Gorgona acquire another grace, as they leave the small chapel and open in the port and throughout the village. As for the sunset from the ridges overlooking the Aegean, it is certainly seductive. From the big rock of Panagia grows and spreads a wild fig that resists salt and does not wither.
In the center of the village, above the fishing port, is the mulberry tree that is over 130 years old and because Myrivilis was sitting there, they call it “The mulberry tree of Myrivilis”. There, in the square as it is called, even though it does not look so much like a square but like an open space, it has taverns that offer delicious appetizers and cafes with cool drinks and sweets. A little further on, a huge plane tree scatters its leaves in the square every summer and more and more you will see a Skaliotis wiping them in the morning. At its roots springs a spring with refreshing water, which children often honor when they take a break from their game.
Around the plane tree, as well as above the square, are the first houses of the village.
Before the Asia Minor Catastrophe, only those Skamniotes who were fishermen and had small shops down there lived in Skala, as well as some Turks. When the refugees arrived and exchanged populations, some of these houses were inhabited by newcomers. Most, however, lived in stumps. Thus, the Settlement was built, just beyond the square, following the coastal road to the beach of Skala. Going to the Settlement, on the coastal road, is the only mansion of Skala, surrounded by its large courtyard and high railings like an impregnable castle.
Beaches
Skala beach, Platanos, as the locals call it, is one of the two nearby swimming options. Lesvos is known for its crystal clear, crystal clear seas, especially in the north. Skala Sykamias, in fact, is the northernmost settlement of the island. As the wind blows, the fishermen know how to tell you whether the sea will be cold or not and whether the currents that pass between the island and the nearby coasts of Turkey will come to our land. Platanos is a little outside the Settlement, on the old dirt road that goes to Molyvos, has along with it abundant shade from the large tamarisk trees and in row benches and showers.
At the other end of the village, about 1.5 km from Skala Square, is the beach of Kaya with sand and small pebbles, also plenty of shade from tamarisk trees, showers, changing tables, and two very nice taverns with fresh fish appetizers and other delicacies. You can also go to Kaya from the coastal, a little rugged, path that starts next to the port, where more and more fishermen patch their nets after fishing. And if you love fishing, you will find here an ideal place, and very willing people to help you.
Hospitality
And for the end the most important thing remains: the people of Sykamia and its Skala. Hospitable, polite and fanatical, with their discreet presence they make their stay in their place even more enjoyable. Almost all of them have relatives abroad, mainly Australia and America; the island once fed the wave of migration. Many expatriates return here for their holidays. Do you want the beauty of nature, do you want the peace of people, do you want the greengrocer to pass by the truck and chant his treatise, it is a bit like going back to other times…